Yet another guest post @yesiamben
About 4 or 5 years ago, when I was still living in the South West, Greg (Cheeseburgerboy) and I spent the best part of an hour wandering around Exeter one lunchtime looking for a bacon and avocado sandwich. You see, Greg really wanted one and being my hometown, I was eager to accommodate. Except we didn't find one and ended up getting an incredibly average chicken sandwich. Of course if I'd known then what I do now, I would have headed for Michael Caines Cafe where they do a pretty decent one. It's just a shame they ruin the Caesar salad wrap by including more anchovy than chicken…
Anyway, let's skip forward to the now. With Greg otherwise engaged, I dutifully headed to the Fattburger popup in The Sun & 13 Cantons in Soho. From what I hear they were in Dalston beforehand, and this residency in Soho is to last about 3 months. I also hear the Three Compasses in Dalston (the old place?) is still doing more or less the same thing - someone correct me if I'm wrong? How I've managed to avoid something 10 minutes from my house is beyond me…
Back to Soho - The Sun & 13 Cantons is your traditional English 'boozer', kinda nice, nothing special. The menu is beautifully simple - four 'real' burgers (beef), three of which are more or less extras on the 'original' burger. Each burger is offered as a single, or a double for a couple of quid extra. Both me and my dining companion went for the single FATT Piggy Burger and some skinny fries.
The food arrived a short wait later. Firstly, I loved the presentation - very popup, very Americana. Paper bags with a Fattburger sticker (I think the double comes in a box) and a bowl of chips. The burger looked absolutely lovely. Much to my surprise, it came with avocado - the Piggy burger doesn't state this on the menu (unlike the brilliantly named 'dragged through the garden backwards' burger) - but wow, what a surprise. Which brings me back to my first paragraph - I don't get what's so special about bacon and avocado - but oh boy, did I GET this. I would have walked around Exeter for 5 hours if I'd known I was getting something like this at the end of it. What a wonderful addition to a bacon burger.
This is a truly fantastic burger. About 3 or 4 bites in my dining companion remarked "this is better than Bread Street Kitchen" (and half the price) - that's some accolade. The burger was comprised of a toasted brioche bun, sliced lettuce, tomato, red onion slices, gherkin slices and avocado slices. This sat underneath a fantastic patty - the tiniest bit pink, and wonderfully cooked - topped with cheese, perfectly done bacon and roasted garlic mayo (as a garlic lover, this was another wonderful addition).
I'm aware it sounds like a lot of competing flavour, but it just worked so well. I was so impressed, in fact, I (embarrassingly) went back for seconds and after finishing the Piggy, and ordered the Korean Burger. Last time I had a burger with Kimchi peppers was at the Hawksmoor and I was eager to compare. This was also the waiters recommendation.
The Korean burger looked equally as good - and don't get me wrong it tasted pretty great - but it just wasn't *as* great. The Piggy burger was something special, and this was, just well, really good. For the record, The Hawksmoor Kimchi burger is probably better, but it's close (and also double the price, so you kind of expect that).
Perhaps most surprising, neither of these were 'sloppy' burgers - to me they were much more akin to the sort of 'build' you'd expect from the higher priced places. I hope this wasn't just because we were there relatively early and the kitchen weren't (yet) rushed off their feet.
I was actually pretty astonished at how good this place is for the price. I mean, it's a pub - and the food you're getting is coming in a bag on a plastic tray, but if you just want a great burger I really can't recommend this enough. The burgers *look* great and they taste even better - what more can you ask for for less than £7? You'd be foolish not to check this place out in the next few months. I'll certainly be going back and bringing Greg with me.
99 Dalston Lane,